|
Surrounded by Mare Grande and Mare Piccolo, Taranto
perpetuates its seafaring vocation, though nowadays the waters of the ancient
lagoon - cut into two parts by the peninsula della Penna – harbour only a part
of the former Navy and its arsenal is sharing the same negative trend of almost
all the Italian dockyards. But as compensation a new city is progressively developing
beyond the small circle of the old town, turned into an island after the creation
of the artificial channel overcome by the renowned swing bridge. The medieval
town is the trait d’union between the industrial appendix and the modern city,
which is now the real representation of the contemporary Taranto, although the
its inhabitants continue to call it the Borough.
The age-old cathedral of S. Cataldo, restored to its original Romanesque
shapes, the high Baroque double stairs and the magnificent ogival portal of
S. Domenico and the massive Aragonese castle overlooking the channel
are the symbols par excellence of the holographic Taranto, but the lanes of
the old town are by now a small part of a bigger urban, commercial and industrial
area, which is forward-looking but still preserves a clear sense of its past.
In the «town of the two seas» of mythical Spartan ancestry the new
and the old have married, although they keep on living in separate rooms. Maybe
this is the recipe of this happy marriage: here the medieval heritage and the
modern reality cohabits spontaneously, without the superimposed laws regulating
the life of other historical towns, where politics of compromises have upset
the architectural fabric usually to the detriment of the ancient areas.
Moreover, the phenomenon of mimesis between the past and the present can be
found in all the district of Taranto. It gives a new appearance to secular realities,
especially in the west on the ancient polis, on the lightly rolling ups and
downs of the Murge and on the Gulf side of the Salento.
The southern appendix of the Murge is still definitely karstic: but the harsh
white plateau dotted with thorny bushes nowadays does not overlook the desolated
marshes that once were found here.
Impressive drainage works have largely recuperated the Arneo marshes and now
vineyards and olive grooves grow in this place, once the reign of malaria. The
area is rich in farms and on the coast there are several beach resorts. Tourism
has become a reality and every summer tens of thousands of vacationers, also
from foreign countries, visit this area.
Praia a Mare, Marechiaro, Lido Bruno, Lido Gàndoli, enclosed between two tors,
Lido di Leporano, Lido Silvana with its vast pinewood, are by now beach resorts
of assured future success, if they will be able to survive the risk of a massive
cementification.
The recent tourist boom is reaching also the hinterland towns: Leporano – Horace
sang its mild climate, the wine and the honey when Saturo and Aulona were prosperous
towns; Pulsano with its majestic baronial castle; the villages leaning against
the slope of the Serra del Belvedere, with the picturesque Albanian oases of
San Giorgio Ionico and Monteparano.
The symbol of Taranto is the swing bridge with the Aragonese castle
reflecting on the waters.
The unstoppable march of progress has reached also Roccaforzata, Faggiano,
Lizzano, Torricella, agricultural conglomerates in the heart of the Murge
Tarantine. At the same time, the triple town walls of the Messanian town
Manduria – whose red wines are the most representative, together
with those of Trani, of the Apulian ones – with the remains of the metallic
walls, the cave known as the spring of Plinio, the 16th century buildings, the
Gothic-Romaneseque cathedral, the 18th century palace Imperiali, the characteristic
ghetto whose houses have no windows, all these features suggest once again to
move backward, to go back in time, in a land of castles and watchtowers, sunburnt
villages, ravines and ridges, rocky edges, karstic boldness but also of Mediterranean
desertions.
If it is true that gastronomy is the secret portrait of a country, the tables
of Taranto celebrate a wedding between sea and land, Jonian sea and Murgia,
with seafruits, fresh fish, shewers, cold cuts, the white wine of Martina Franca
contiguous to the jug of red Manduria. This also is the scent of Taranto.
Gastone Geron
|